OUR PILGRIMAGE TO DWARAKA KRISHNA TEMPLE

There are 12 Alwars who have made their bakthi to Lord Shri Narayana by singing many holy verses. This group of verses was called as Naalayira Divya Prapantham [holy 4000 verses]. Upon these 4000 verses they have covered 108 divyadesams of Lord Sri Narayana. Hence those 108 divyadesams become popular. Since these 108 Divyadesams had Mangalasasanam by 12 Alwars, these kShethrams were called as Alwar's Abhimaana Kshetram. Upon these 108 divyadesams 2 were not existence in our known world [ Leela Vibuthi ] . Those 2 were Thiruparkadal & Shri Vaikundam [ Nithya Vibuthi ].
I used to visit the temples wherever and whenever possible with my wife Mythili.  But regular visits to Thirumalai and Sabarimala have become a part of my life.  Ever since we went to my native place Melasevel and identified Navaneethakrishnan as our family deity in the Year 1997, visit to this shrine has become a annual feature.  Similarly, visit to temple at Kalyanapuram, Uppilliappan and Tiruvayyaru has also become an annual practice for we have to be at Tiruvayyaru for the Aadi Pooram festival.
But the visit to Badrinath in the Year 2008 along with my son Sathyan and brother in laws made a big change in my interest in visiting temples and in particular the ,106  Divya Desams of Lord Narayana.  This interest got strengthened further by the visit made to Mukthinath in Nepal, Ayodhya, Naimisaranyam, in the subsequent Year.  On return, I checked up the number of temples that we have visited among the 106 Divya Desams and it revealed that we are to visit yet more than 60 temples.  Lord Narayanan made me to take a vow that we shall visit the remaining temples as early as possible.  Since my total retirement from the commercial commitments in my life in the Year 2010, whenever opportunity came, we started visiting the divyadesams and completed 105 by the end of the same Year, leaving behind Dwaraka in Gujarat alone.  That happens to be the 106^th Divyadesam among the 106 shtalam.  This is not a coincidence but the destiny bestowed on us both.
Though I have planned the visit to Dwaraka many a time since then, Lord Krishna called us only on 14^th January 2013, happened to be in the month of Margazhi- the crown among the months.  This we combined with the marriage of Vishal, my nephew Basanth’s son, at Mumbai on 17.1.2013.
Thus, we have become one among so many people who have visited all the 106 Divya Desams and which is considered a great boon to you given by Lord Narayana in your life.  I have pleasure to make this travelogue on our visit to Dwaraka which will be the last one in my blogs made on Divyadesams.


Seldom visited by westerners because of its remote location in the western state of Gujarat, the fascinating and extremely beautiful Jagatmandir temple is bordered on one side by the ocean coast and on the other side by the town of Dwarka. One of India's oldest and most venerated pilgrimage sites; Dwarka's archaeological and historical background is shrouded in mystery. Mythologically, Dwarka - or Dwarawati as it is known in Sanskrit - was the site chosen by Garuda, the Divine Eagle, who brought Krishna here when he departed Mathura. Krishna founded the beautiful city and lived there the remaining years of his life until he died (according to legend) in 3102 BC. Scholars confer that the oldest parts of the Jagatmandir temple may only date to the reconstructions of the Gupta period in 413 AD.
In the 7th century the sage Sankaracharya established four great monasteries in the cardinal directions of the country (Sringeri in the south, Puri in the east, Joshimath in the north, and Dwarka in the west). This emphasis on Dwarka further increased its importance as a pilgrimage destination. The original temples were destroyed during the 11th century by Muslim armies; frequently rebuilt, they continued to be attacked by the Muslims through the 15th century. The existing temple of Jagatmandir, also known as Sri Dwarkeesh, dates from a 1730 rebuilding. It is 52 meters tall, and enshrines an idol called Sri Ranchhodrayji. The temple stands five storeys tall and is built on 72 pillars. It is believed that due to damage and destruction by the sea, Dwaraka has submerged six times and modern day Dwaraka is the 7th such city to be built in the area. According to Hindu legend the god Krishna built a city which was ultimately destroyed by rising sea levels   the first clear historical record is dated 574 A.D. and occurs in the Palitana Plates of Samanta Simhaditya. This inscription refers to Dwaraka as the capital of the western coast of Saurashtra and still more important, states that Sri Krishna lived here. Visitors enter through the Swarga Dwar and exit through the Moksha Dwar here.
Hindu Epics such as Mahabharata have often been described as myths. “On the same day that Krishna departed from the earth the powerful dark-bodied Kali Age (Kali Yugam) descended. The oceans rose and submerged the whole of Dwaraka.  According to Vishnu Purana - Dwaraka was submerged by the sea right after the death of Lord Krishna. This was regarded as a grandiose metaphor, part of a story filled with great myths. In the early eighties an important archaeological site was found in India, at Dwaraka, the site of the legendary city of Lord Krishna.  Now, it is discovered that the whole coast of western India sank by nearly 40 feet around 1500 B.C. E. 

The Moolavar of this Dwaraka Divyadesam is Kalyana Narayanan. He is also called with the names as Dwarakadesam and Dwarakanathji. Prathyaksham for Droupadhi, Kuchelar, Sathyabama, Rukmani, Arjuna etc.  Moolavar is in Nindra Thirukkolam facing his thirumugham towards west direction.  It is a Mukthi Kshetram/Moksha Puri among the 108 Divya Desams and  one of the oldest temples of Lord Krishna built during 16^th century.  The sanctum sanctorum of Lord Krishna built by his grandson some 2500 years back.  The Tamil Alwars of the first millennium CE have sung of Dwaraka in a total of 13 verses, in which Nammalwar refers to Krishna as the Lord of Dwaraka

The temple is well maintained and puja timings are strictly followed.  The devotees are well controlled for their darshan.  Guides are available to explain you the various shrines situated inside the temple.  The shankara mutt called here as Sharada Peedam is situated inside the temple complex.  The main deity is made of white marble and always decorated beautifully.  We get a feeling to stay there always to have this darshan for ever.  You feel a vibration in your body when you get his darshan. Darshan which starts in the early morning closes late in the night only.  In between it is closed for naivedyams 

The temple complex is very huge and kept very clean.  The entire place of Dwaraka economically depends upon the existence of this temple and devotees coming from every corner of our vast Country.

Dwaraka can be reached from Ahmadabad by road and also the train.  In case you would like to fly, the nearest airport is Jamnagar which is 133 kilometers away from Dwaraka.  Buses are available from Jamnagar.   Normal charges for the tourist car is Rs 11 per kilometer and they charges for minimum 300 Kms per day.

TEMPLE FOR RUKMINI DEVI

The Rukmini temple here is believed to be 1600 years old and to be the site of Krishna's marriage with her. It is located 2 kms a away from Dwaraka   

Rukmini was very dedicated and derived immense pleasure in performing all types of services to the Lord She demonstrated how a devotee irrespective of his/her position should serve the Lord.   Gradually, she nurtured a feeling that she was dearer to the Lord than other consorts.  In this case, Lord wanted to correct Rukmini and hence created an opportunity to enact His Leela.   Krishna accompanied by Rukmini went to sage Durvasar’s hermitage and invited him for lunch.  A chariot was brought forth for the sage to be seated.  However the sage said that he could not sit in a chariot driven by horses and if it was driven by them he was prepared to visit them.   The Lord of the Universe unhesitatingly agreed for the same.  The Lord along with Rukmini Thayar drove the chariot.  Due to the scorching heat and tiresomeness, Rukmini felt thirsty and expressed the desire to quench her thirst.   Krishna pressed HIS toe on the ground and water sprouted out.   As she was desperately thirsty, Rukmini forgot the decorum to take the rishis permission for quenching HER thirst and drank the water.  This infuriated the rishi who cursed her to live separately from HER Lord Krishna as the pride that She was more dearer to Krishna made her behave in this way.  He also cursed that the entire area would be bereft of drinking water. 

Rukmini realized HER mistake and fell prostrate at the sage’s feet and asked for forgiveness.  The rishi said that she has to live separately for 12 years and then join the Lord.  (Mother Sita had to live in Rama’s separation for 12 months and Rukmini Devi had to live alone for 12 years).  Thus Rukmini’s pride was subdued. However, Krishna assured her that He would visit her daily. As she stayed here for 12 years, this place came to be known as “Rukmini Dwaraka”. (Some say that Rukmini got married to Krishna at this place.) One gets only half the punyam if he visits only Gomti (Main) Dwaraka.   Dwaraka yaatrai is deemed to be complete only after visiting Rukmini Dwaraka. 

BHET DWARKA

The Gomati Sangamam where the river Gomti reaches the sea is located close by. A little north of Dwaraka, one can ferry across to Bet - Dwaraka Island where Kuchela is supposed to have met Krishna, his very close class mate in their young age under Gurukulam style of education.  Krishna killed the demon Shankhasura at this place. There are shrines to Rukmini, Trivikrama, Devaki, Jambavati, Lakshmi Narayan and other deities here.

This is situated on an island in the midst of the Arabian Sea.  The nearest port is Okha from where we have to reach by Boats.  One can engage a boat exclusively for themselves, costing around Rs 1200 to 1500.  The boatman will wait for you to have darshan in the temple and bring you back to the port.  The standard boat operated by the Government charge uyou Rs 5/ for one way.

The presiding deity is Lord Krishna with separate sannidhis for His consorts and mother Devaki.  Apart from the main sannadhi for  Lord Krishna, there are sannadhis for his mother Devaki, His 8 chief consorts, Purushothaman, Lakshmi Narayan, Balaraman, Radha_Krishna, Satyanarayana Swamy, Madhava Perumal, and Garuda. .Bhet” in Gujarati means island.  As this is situated in an island, it is named so.  This was the pleasure spot for the Lord with HIS consorts.  Legend says that Krishna used to spend time with HIS consorts in this place.  This is considered as one of the 9 Dwarakas.  As per the local devotees, this place was part of Krishna’s palace and when the original Dwaraka was submerged into the sea, this place remained intact.  Thus they claim this to be the original Dwaraka.  The entire complex is situated on an old palace; more than 550 Years old and presently under renovation.  Though the guide claims that this is the place where Krishna stayed and met his closest friend Kuchelar, I am not convinced.  It might be a fact that this island remained even after the original place submerged under the sea.  Since Lord Krishna stayed here, it is considered as holy place.  The idols are made of white marble and beautifully created.  There were thousands of devotees worshipping there when we visited in the evening.  One should take care of their children as the there is always a huge crowd.  The sea is very calm from the port to the island.  Deity MahAlakshmi is also very beautifully made and worshipped in a separate sannadhi.  More than 300 Brahmins are staying in the temple complex.  AnnadhAnam is carried everyday and donations are solicited from the visiting pilgrims.

A word of caution.  The visit to Bet-Dwaraka should be made well in time as you have to return to the main island before 6 PM.  There are no facility available for your stay there for the night.  The place is not very clean and poorly maintained.  The way leading to the temple from the Boat Jetty is very narrow, crowded with small shops on both the sides.

Nageshwar Temple for Lord Shiva (one of the Jyothi Linga sthalam )

Nageshwar was believed to be known as 'Darukavana', which is an ancient epic name of a forest in India. Below are two well-known legends attached to this mystical temple?

• According to the first legend, 'Balakhilyas', a group of dwarf sages worshipped Lord Shiva in Darukavana for long a time. To test their devotion and patience, Shiva came to them as a nude ascetic wearing only nagas [serpents] on his body. Wives of sages got attracted to the saint and went after him, leaving their husbands behind. Sages got very disturbed and outraged by this. They lost their patience and cursed the ascetic to loose his linga [one of the limited meanings is Phallus, but it has  a deeper theistic symbolism]. Shiva linga fell on the earth and the whole world trembled. Lord Brahma and Lord Vishnu came to Lord Shiva, requesting him to save the earth from destruction and take back his linga. Shiva consoled them and took back his linga. [From Vaamana Purana CH.6th & 45th]. Lord Shiva promised his divine presence in Darukavana as 'jyothirlinga' for ever.
• Another story goes hundreds of years ago in the Shiv Purana, about a demon couple named Daruka and Daruki, after whom was named Daruka Van (forest), later known as Dwaraka. Daruki was a devotee of Parvathi and was blessed by her. He misused her blessings and tyrannized the local folks. One day he captured a Shiva devotee called Supriya who was one of the pilgrims on a boat. The demon imprisoned her along with several others at his capital Darukavana. Supriya advised all prisoners to recite the Shiva mantra ‘Aum Namaha Shivayay’ to protect them. When Daruka came to know about this he ran to kill Supriya. Instantly Lord Shiva appeared in the form of a jyothirlinga from the earth. He could not kill the demon who was blessed by his own wife, Parvathi, but he assured Supriya that he would protect him in the form of a linga. The linga here thus came to be revered.

The abishekams by water to the Jyothi lingam is performed throughout the day and night by the priests on rotation.  The temple and its surroundings are maintained clean.  The temple is situated in between the Okha port and the Dwaraka Town.

In case you take the flight from Mumbai/Delhi to Jamnagar, you can visit first Bet Dwaraka and then to Nageshwar Temple on the way to Dwaraka.  Then book in to your hotel and after some rest, visit the main shrine, followed by a visit to Rukmini Temple. 

There are other places worth visiting like Gayathri Devi temple, Geetha Mandir, Moola Dwaraka, Prabhasa Theertham, Mukthi Dwaraka and Dakoor Dwaraka.  But we have visited the four temples as narrated above as we have to return to Mumbai on Monday evening.

Both of us feel very proud and indebted to Lord Narayana who bestowed his blessings on us and made us to visit his Divyadesams in our life.